Another one ticked off my
list.
I have always been
interested in Melaka (also known as Malacca), probably because I live in a city, which sometimes
disregards its heritage. So, when I was
finalizing my annual ASEAN backpacking trip with my friends, I diverted from
the group’s itinerary for a brief solo travel and chose Kuala Lumpur as my jump
off to Phuket instead of Singapore. I
allocated two days for this trip, and it was enough to be totally charmed by
Melaka.
I took a bus from Kuala
Lumpur International Airport, and in less
than three hours, including waiting time and the taxi from the bus terminal to
the hotel, I already caught glimpses of the iconic salmon-colored building of
this UNESCO world heritage city.
It was mid-afternoon, and the weather was perfect for a
walk. So, I didn’t waste time. After dropping off my bags at The Rucksack
Caratel, my Instagram -friendly Melaka accommodation,
I took hold of a map and began exploring on foot.
That was the first thing
that charmed me in Melaka. It’s a
walkable city.
The hotel was a short walk
to the Dutch Square or the Red Square, where I began my short stint at being a
flaneur.
Being surrounded by these Dutch structures was a like a trip
back in time. There was the Stadhuys (the
oldest remaining Dutch building in Asia),
the Christ Church, Queen Victoria’s Fountain,
the Clock Tower, and a windmill across the street. Except
that there were also the Melaka’s glitzy trishaws that blast pop hits and barfs Hello Kitties,
Pokemons, and SpongeBobs; and the Chinese
tour guides shouting instructions to its wards to pull you back into reality.
The Red Square is the
starting point for the trishaws, but I
opted, of course, to continue on foot.
From the Red Square, I
already spotted the famed Melaka River, which was the main artery of trade for
Melaka, and the entry point to another popular tourist draw the Jonker Street. I
almost got derailed from my saunter when I saw these Caucasians enjoying their beer in a pub by the river, but I looked
away and continued walking up to the pathways that lead to St. Paul’s Hill.
The main attraction in that
hill is the St. Paul Church, the oldest church building in Malaysia and the
Southeast Asia. It is also part of the
Melaka Museum Complex, just like the Stadthuys and the A Fomosa Ruins, a Portuguese fortress, which is
the oldest surviving European architecture remains in South East Asia.
The stroll up the hill on that late afternoon was just perfect to
wake up my limbs that have been numb from
the eight hours travel from Manila.
I spent a good thirty
minutes exploring the summit of the hill, which also offers a good view of the
city aside from the picturesque ruins of the chapel.
Down the hill after, I rewarded myself with a
cool drink from a vending machine using
old coins I collected from my past trips to Malaysia.
After the Melaka Museum
Complex, I decided to see more of the city, this time on a bird’s eye
view. Armed with my map, I searched for
the Taming Sari Tower and found it after less than fifteen minutes’ walk. I wanted to wait for the sunset for the ride,
but it was Ramadhan, and it was scheduled
to close that time.
So, took the ride earlier
than planned to see the rest of this remarkable historical
colonial town. At the height of 80 meters, the ride offered a spectacular and
panoramic view of the city, including a patchwork
of trees, farmlands, and beaches.
That walk alone was enough
for me to love Melaka, but I knew Melaka is not just European. What makes Melaka more lovable is that it
beautifully melds its colonial influences with its Malay and Chinese roots.
So, it was Chinatown for the
rest of my two-day Melaka outing. Plus, food.
I knew that you have not really been to Melaka if you haven’t sampled
its cuisine.
Baba Nyonya dishes is
foremost of these. The name “ Baba- Nyonya” refers both to the
people and the cuisine. Baba means
father and Nyonya means mother. Back in the 15th century, when Melaka was
one of Southeast Asia's greatest trading ports, Chinese merchants seized the
chance by marrying local women, thus saturating the city with its own culture.
I learned more about Baba Nyonya from the Baba and Nyonya
Heritage House Museum, which showcases the local history of this ethnic race
also known as Peranakan.
The museum is located parallel to Jonker Street, at what is
known as the “millionaire’s row” due to its
luxurious houses. The Chan Family owns
this nineteenth-century house museum,
which was opened to the public in 1985.
It is another step back into a bygone time with a look at wedding
traditions, birthday celebrations, funeral arrangements, even mahjong sessions.
A less opulent museum,
Casababa Gallery, is located across the street.
The best part of this museum, pictures are allowed. The caretaker, knowing I was traveling alone,
acted as my photographer even coaching me on how to pose like a Nyonya.
The rest of my trip to Melaka was about handmade soap
studios, whimsical artworks, and souvenir shopping, all within the vicinity of
Jonker Street. Too bad I missed the
night market, but it's a reason to come back.
Two days was enough to see Melaka, but not enough to experience Melaka totally.
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