Myanmar (formerly Burma) is a very devout Buddhist country.  A visit is good for anyone’s spirituality, and it really doesn’t matter if you are a Buddhist or not.  

For seven days, my friends and I trod the streets of Myanmar with men and women clad in longyi and smothered in thanaka (traditional makeup) to visit some of the countries most revered payas or pagodas (memorial structures containing relics), and and ku or temples (places of meditation).

It was the highlight of our recent Independence Day ASEAN Backpacking Trip, which covered three countries and six cities.  In my bid to visit all ASEAN countries, it was my penultimate. 

This short trip covered the country’s most remarkable holy sites, each one unique and fascinating.

Mandalay

In Mandalay, we went to see the country’s highly regarded Buddha image; the Mahamuni Image enshrined in the Mahamuni Pagoda.  

The Mahamuni is one of only five likenesses of the Buddha made during his lifetime – two are in India; two in paradise; and the Mahamuni Buddha.  The image originally came from the Arakan Kingdom in Western Burma and was commissioned by the king after a visit from the Buddha.  The Buddha breathed on it, and thereafter the image became its exact likeness.

The image is enshrined in a small chamber in the pagoda.

Myanmar pagodas and temples, by the way, are guided by strict dress codes.  Guests are required to wear conservative clothing, covering the knees and shoulders.  Also, footwears are not allowed inside. 

The pagoda is housed in a big complex, which also includes several shops selling souvenir items; and a museum that tells the history of Buddhism. 

Also in Mandalay is the Kuthodaw Pagoda.  This one really charmed me.  The pagoda contains the world’s largest book.  Located its grounds are 729 stone-inscription caves with each one containing a marble slab.  Inscribed on both sides are excerpts from the Tripitaka.   

Buddhism in Myanmar is predominantly Theravada, and its doctrinal foundation is the Tripitaka.

Another major pilgrimage site in Mandalay is the hill where the city took its name.  Aside from its abundance of pagodas and monasteries, the hill is a perfect spot to watch the sun set. A panoramic view of Mandalay awaits those who visit.  No worries, though.  No need to climb steps as escalators are available for tourists.  

At the top of the hill is the Sutaungpyei (meaning wish-fulfilling) Pagoda.

Bagan

In Bagan, be prepared to be awed.  

Rising in its lush plains are countless golden pagodas and temples.  Its vast temple site is really the biggest draw for travelers from across the globe. 

With my fellow early risers, we watched as the rising of the sun slowly reveal the otherworldly silhouettes of pagodas and temples from one of the terraces of the Shwesandaw Pagoda, one of Myanmar’s popular sunrise or sunset viewing spots.   It was an exquisite experience that can only be had very early morning, so it was a good thing I was able to force myself out of bed very early in the morning. 

The temples, all testaments to Burmese people’s devotions, stretched out as far as the eye can see.  Most of them built between the 11^th and 13^th centuries.  The country’s frequent earthquakes have shattered many of these temples, but there are also a lot superbly preserved or beautifully restored. 

Our guides took us to some of the notable ones, including Ananda, "Westminster Abbey of Burma"; Htilominlo Temple, known as the last Myanmar style temple built; and the Thatbyinnyu Pagoda, one of the highest monuments in Bagan. 

At one point during our sightseeing, one of my travel companions already asked ‘what if they are right and Buddha is the real god?’ Although, any Buddhist would argue that Buddha is not a God and has never claimed to be God.

Buddhism is actually the philosophy of awakening.  It’s born from the experience of the Buddha, awakened at the age of 35. 

Of these three structures our guides took us, Ananda is the most memorable.  The temple is laid out in a cruciform, housing four standing Buddhas, each one facing the cardinal direction of West, East, North, and South.  

Facing the West is the Gautama or simply the Buddha; the East is the Konagamana Buddha (the twenty-sixth Buddha); the North is the Kakusandha Buddha (the twenty-fifth Buddha), and the South is the Kassapa Buddha (the twenty-seventh Buddha).  The twenty-nine Buddhas, including the Gautama, are those who have attained enlightenment.

The Kakusandha Buddha and the Kassapa Buddha are said for be originals.  The Kassapa is also known as the Buddhalisa or the Smiling Buddha.  It got its moniker because the farther you are from the Buddha, the bigger the smile.  The expression of the face of the Buddha appears to change when viewed from different distances.

Another interesting tidbit about this temple is that the architecture was inspired by the stories of eight visiting monks from India.  The monks told the king about a legendary cave temple in the Himalayan Mountains, and the king decided to have it replicated.  It is said that after the Ananda temple was complete, the king has the architects executed, to make sure anything like it could never be built again.  

The name Ananda is derived from Buddha’s first cousin.

Similarly, Htilominlo Temple has four Buddhas that face each direction. Nearby is a monastery with a terrace that allows a vast view of the temple and other nearby structures.

On our last day in Bagan, we chose to explore more on two wheels.  We rented a bicycle and went to see more of these religious monuments.  Among them are the Thakyapone Temple, the Shwe Leik Too, the Leaning Temple, and the Minochantra. 

Shwe Leik Too Temple is another popular sunrise or sunset viewing site in Bagan.  Mid-morning, when we visited, it was quiet.  Aside from us exploring the temple grounds, there were only two women - a Caucasian meditating and a local selling souvenir items.

After all those temples, I really didn’t think I would still be impressed in what was waiting for me in Yangon, our final stop.  But, lo and behold, my jaw literally dropped upon entering Shwedagon Pagoda, one of Myanmar’s oldest pagodas.

Yangon

Shwedagon Pagoda, together with the Botatung and the Sule, were constructed during the lifetime of the Buddha.  Of course, the original was much smaller.  Shwedagon Pagoda today is massive, majestic, and mesmerizing.  Stepping into the complex from one of its elevators or escalators is like finding the lost city of gold.

Its stupa is covered with gold, and the top is encrusted with diamonds.  Enshrined in this pagoda is Buddha’s hair.

But, what impressed me more was the tranquility of the devotees despite all the tourists roaming around, taking photographs and selfies. Their calmness was so encouraging for a person like me who has difficulty staying still.  

Also in Yangon is the Chaukhtatgyi Buddha Temple, which is home to the most respected reclining Buddha image in the country and also one of the largest, at 66 meters (217 ft) long.

This trip is a repeat of the first (Ho Chi Minh – Phnom Penh, Siem Reap – Bangkok). My friends added Chiang Mai – Kuala Lumpur because I requested. I joined them in Bangkok.

Why it's called a banana pancake? I also do not know.

Day 0 Flight from Manila to Bangkok

I took a direct flight from Manila to Bangkok, arriving shortly after midnight. From the airport, I took a cab to our hotel, Suneta Hostel Khao San.

I did consider other transportation options, but it was too late, and I wanted to rest already.

From the airport, I followed the directional signs to the taxi stands. It was easy, and there was an automatic queuing system that hands out slips, including the name of the taxi driver and the lane where it's parked. I had a printout of the hotel address, and the taxi driver called the hotel for directions. Good thing. I initially thought the hotel was on Khao San Road.

Suneta is a backpackers' place. On my first night, I was booked in a 6-bed dormitory (490 Baht), then transferred on my second night to a 4-bed mixed dormitory. This time, I was joined by my friends who came from Siem Reap.

Suneta is a nice and clean hostel. They offer free coffee throughout the day and complimentary breakfast. Even toiletries are provided for free. At first, I questioned myself why I didn’t book in a proper hotel, but after my first night, I enjoyed Suneta.

On our second day, we embarked on a tour of Bangkok's must-see temples in the morning, followed by lunch at Prachak Roasted Duck, renowned for its roasted ducks. In the afternoon, we explored Ayutthaya, just an hour away from Bangkok.

The van rental for the entire excursion cost us a total of 5,500 Baht.

We arrived in Chiang Mai past noon. From the terminal, we took a red taxi or a Songtaew and paid 20 Baht each.

Our accommodation in Chiang Mai was Yindee Stylish Guest House, priced at 1,700 Baht per room.

I like Yindee Stylish Guesthouse. It is clean, uncluttered, and spacious, conveniently located near some of Chiang Mai’s best bars and restaurants. There is also a 7/11 nearby.

Much of our first day (or night) was spent at the Saturday Night Market.

Day 4 Northern Thailand Escapades

On our second day, we took a tour from Travel Hub that included elephant riding, white water rafting, bamboo rafting, and waterfall trekking. The cost for the entire group was 12,400 Baht.

It's seafood cooked with egg and stuffed with fresh bean sprouts. Yummy! And, surprisingly cheap. Food in Bangkok and Chiang Mai is incredibly affordable.

Day 5 Around Kuala Lumpur

The next day, we flew to Kuala Lumpur and hired a van to take us around Batu Caves and Kuala Lumpur. The van rental cost us 580 Ringgit.

Our flight was an AirAsia FlyThru, so we didn't have to worry about claiming and lugging around our baggage.

After a very quick dinner at KLIA2, the new budget terminal of the Kuala Lumpur International Airport, we flew back to Manila.

Most AirAsia Fly-Thru Flights' transit point is Kuala Lumpur. I have spent 5 to 6-hour layovers at KLIA2, the new budget terminal of Kuala Lumpur International Airport, on multiple occasions. On these layovers, I chose to stay inside KLIA2 to shop and enjoy the food outlets.

Recently, during a 9-hour layover, we decided to hire a van and tour Kuala Lumpur. Here's a recap of what we did during that layover.

1. Batu Caves

Our first stop was the Batu Caves.

It took us approximately an hour to get there. It was my first time visiting Batu Caves.

Batu Caves is a limestone hill that features a series of caves and a cave temple in Selangor, Malaysia. Home to the most popular Hindu shrines, it is dedicated to Lord Murugan, the Hindu god of war.

The Petronas Twin Towers soar to a height of 452 meters with 88 storeys. The 41st and 42nd floors are connected by a 58-meter-long, double-decker Sky Bridge. Inspired by Islamic architecture, the buildings primarily house the corporate headquarters of the Petronas Company and other offices.

Although Central Market was dropped from our itinerary due to time constraints, we had a fun and whirlwind tour of KL. I would gladly do it again on my next layover.

Three days are never really enough to get to know a place. I am one of those they call a weekend warrior, so I know. While I am ready to embrace slow travels, I just don't have both the time nor the money for it.

So, to make up for satisfying my wanderlust, I travel as much as I can. One of my annual things is backpacking from the first to the second week of June around ASEAN countries with some friends. During this time, the Philippines is celebrating its independence day and in my way, by traveling, I celebrate.

It was me who requested the group to add Chiang Mai to our annual backpacking itinerary. I decided to forego the first part of the trip (Ho Chi Minh – Phnom Penh – Siem Reap) and just join them in Bangkok.

From Bangkok, we took a train to Chiang Mai.

The whole Chiang Mai experience started for me on that train ride.

It was charming waking up to the countryside view of Thailand then having slow breakfast. The train ride was more than 12 hours, and we had all the time to do everything we wanted to do slowly. Well, there was not much we really can do anyway but eat and sleep. Drinking alcoholic beverages was not allowed.

Hello, Chiang Mai!

It was past noon when we arrived in Chiang Mai.

Chiang Mai is located in the mountainous northern part of Thailand. It is the hub of Northern Thailand and the capital city of the Province with the same name.

Our slow pace continued, which is just right for the calm and laid-back atmosphere of Chiang Mai.

Instead of rushing to explore the city after we checked in at Yindee Stylish Guest House, our home for 3 days and 2 nights in Chiang Mai, we had beers, chatted, and looked at the different tourism brochures in the hotel lobby.

This Old City, enclosed by a now crumbling wall, is filled with ancient temples, cafes, and restaurants. It is small enough to walk through in just a few hours.

We spent the rest of the day, or night, scouring the night market for good finds, then capped our first night with some of Thailand's best beers.

Eco Tour North of Chiang Mai

North of Chiang Mai is where the adventure is.

Together with Travel Hub Thailand, we spent our second day North of Chiang Mai elephant riding, zip-lining, white water rafting, bamboo rafting, trekking, and swimming in a waterfall.

Sounds like an action-packed, exhilarating day, right? Well, most of it was relaxing, tiring but relaxing.

From Chiang Mai, Travel Hub drove us to Mae Tang Area for our one-day tour. We first rode elephants through the forest and along the river valley. I must admit, I was having second thoughts on riding the elephants but still went along with it.

After that, we went to the Mae Tang River for white-water rafting. It was the second time I wanted to back out. I couldn’t stand the pungent smell of the life jacket, which I think was due to overuse, but I was already there.

Despite the river being a bit calmer, probably a level 2 or 3 rapid, it was still enjoyable. It helped that I was with a fun group. The guide took his job very seriously, and he must have cringed a million times at our raucous group. I am sorry!

We had lunch after that. They served us Pad Thai. It was not one of Thailand’s best, but we also had beer, so we were satisfied.

Our next stop was the waterfalls. The 30-minute uphill trek to Huaysatan Waterfalls was just enough to burn off what we had for lunch. The cool water was enough to wash off the unpleasant scent from the life vests that got stuck on our skin and clothes.

Our tour was supposed to end after the waterfall trekking and swimming, but we asked to be brought to see the long neck ladies. We paid an extra 300 Baht entrance fee for this.

After reading and watching a lot about them, we wanted to meet them personally.

The long neck ladies wear a solid spiral of coils, which gives the illusion of a stretched neck, but actually, their collarbones are just pushed down.

After a full day of activities, we still had energy, so we returned to the night market—this time on a different street. The Saturday and Sunday night markets were held in distinct locations.

There, I stumbled upon my best street food find, picked up a few more souvenirs, and relished the experience of perusing the items for sale. We capped off the night with a few more bottles of beer before packing for our flight back home the following day via Kuala Lumpur.

This Chiang Mai trip was short and sweet, yet I couldn't shake the feeling that I missed out on a lot. It's a familiar sentiment I often have when leaving a place. But, as always, I reassure myself that it's just another reason to come back. The next time, it will be slow and sweet.